How to Paint Shiny Ultramarine Armour 40K - Part I Kujo Painting [Tutorial]

What's up guys!
Welcome back, sorry there was a bit of a delay since the last video, I've been busy painting
Angron for a client. So far I've finished off the base, it shouldn't be long until I
have the whole thing complete.
This video is going to show how to paint the blue Ultramarine hanging off the side here.
You can see I've already based him using Scale Color Navy Blue, now if you don't have that,
GW Kantor Blue or Vallejo Steel Blue are both pretty close equivalents.
Now, because the model is falling over, I wanted to create quite a dramatic shadow,
to do that I simply painted the front of the armour a darker blue. I used Scale Colour
Deep Blue for this.
If you opted to use an equivalent colour, just add a drop of black to your base colour
and you'll get the same effect.
So just continue to block in the shadow along the front of the model, I'm doing the legs
On the shoulder pads we'll just hit this area here towards the front.
Don't bother trying to blend any of this, we'll get to that later.
For the first highlight we're going to make a pretty big jump up to Mediterranean Blue,
Teclis Blue makes for a really good substitute.
Now, remember the model is falling forwards so the highlights are all going to be on his
back. We're going to block these in so that they match the shape of the surface. So for
example, the highlight on the shoulder pad is going to be quite rounded, whereas on the
armour plates here, it's going to be a straight line. Along the length of the surface.
I want my light source to be coming from a bit of an angle, so it's going to hit the
legs slightly off centre, it's important when you're trying to get a shiney finish that
you use a consistent light source. So you can use any light direction that you want
just try and be mindful of it when you're painting the model so that you get the highlights in the correct place.
So again notice we're not trying to blend any of these highlights, just block in where they would be
Now that we've mapped out where are lights and darks will go on the model, we'll start
to blend them out, to do this we'll start off by making a roughly 1 to 1 mix of our
base and highlight colours.
Then we're going to use this to paint next to our highlights, so that it overlaps the
transition slightly on either side. To clarify, we want to have the paint cover a small amount
of both the highlight and the base colour.
This creates a mid tone between our base and highlight.
The reason we let it overlap onto the highlight is to take advantage of the transparent nature
of acrylics. Because some of the highlight will show through underneath our mid tone,
that's going to help us get a much smoother blend.
To continue we'll make a glaze with our shadow colour, I just use water for this.
You can use a glaze medium if you like but I prefer to keep things simple.
So now simply going to draw the brush over the transition between the base and shadow,
making sure to move towards the darker colour.
We'll build this up over a few layers until the hard line between the two colour softens
into nothing, leaving us with a smooth blend between the two different shades.
When I'm working with glazes I usually keep a hairdryer in my lap, and zap the model between
passes. If you don't use a hairdryer, I can recommend trying it, it speeds things up quite
a bit.
So once we've blended out the shadows, we'll move onto our midtone. Again we'll make a
glaze by adding some water and then with a small amount on our brush we'll draw the glaze
over the transition between our base and midtone in the direction of our highlight.
Next we'll make another glaze, this time with our highlight colour. And we'll glaze over
the transition between our midtone and highlight.
A little technique you can use here is to stipple over the transition, so here I'm just
doing lots of little dots, by simply bouncing the tip of the brush around the line between
the two colours. This helps to break up the area and softens out the blend quite quickly.
I often go back and forth between stippling and normal glazing. Combing the two techniques
speeds up the process and tends to end up giving you a better overall finish.
We'll add another highlight in the same manner, this time using Sky Blue, which is very similar
to GW Lothern Blue.
So just place the highlights as you did before but make them a little smaller this time.
You can do this before you do any blending if you want, I quite like to break up the
process a little so I don't get bored. But each to their own.
Now we'll just make a glaze with that same colour and blend out the edges in exactly
the same manner.
In order to get the armour to shine we'll add some exteme reflex highlights.
To do this, we'll mix a decent amount of white into our sky blue.
And then paint a thin line down the centre of our brightest highlight.
This needs to be as straight as possible, a wobby line is going to ruin the effect.
I find it easiest to do it in one stroke. If you mess about and try to break it up into
lots of little ones you're going to run into a lot of issues. Just steady your hand, place
the tip at the top edge and draw it backwards across the surface in one smooth action. This
is more about confidence than skill, if you doubt yourself your hand will start to shake
or you'll stop half way and you don't want that. If you're worried, try it out on a piece
of paper or your thumb nail first, and just practice until you can get a decent sharp
line.
For the shoulder pads, just paint a little dot in the middle of your highlight.
We'll also add little edge highlights along the side of the armour plates near where are
reflex highlights are.
In part two we'll be looking at adding final sparkles to the armour, we'll also be going
over how to do the gold trim, the other metal parts, and the backpack.
Thanks for watching guys, a like and share would be most appreciated.
Thanks again.
Bye for now....

How to Paint Shiny Ultramarine Armour 40K - Part I Kujo Painting [Tutorial]

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