How to Paint Shiny Ultramarine Armour 40K - Part II Kujo Painting [Tutorial]

What's up guys!
Welcome back to part two of how to paint a shiny ultra smurf. The interest from the last
video was quite high so hopefully this one will be just as well received.
Here's where we left off last time. Go ahead and block in all the incidental details with
black and we'll make a start on the gold trims on
the shoulder pads.
We're using XV-88 here as our base colour. Apply this quite thinly pulling the paint
upto where you want your highlight. I'm going to place these so that they match
the highlights on the armour plates.
So up here towards the top of the trim. We'll also put one along the bottom here, again
I'm trying to make it line up with our initial blue highlight
You want to apply this step in a couple of layers so that you can create a smooth transition
over the black. Allowing some of the black so show through in the darker areas to help
give you more contrast.
Next we'll make a fairly big jump in colour, with Vallejo Japanese Uniform. Balor Brown
also works well here.
This is the same idea as before, only we're covering a small surface area this time. So
keep your paint thin and pull the pigment up towards your highlight. Do this in a couple
of layers, making sure that the colour is opaque at the highlight.
begin to add some white into the japanese uniform and continue building up smaller and
smaller highlights. When you're mixing in the white you should notice that your paint
will start to thicken up, so don't forget to add some more water each time you mix in
more white.
Now for our last highlight we'll just add a small dot of pure white.
Make a thin glaze with armour brown and draw the glaze down away from the highlights. Apply
this in a few layers in order to build up the contrast.
Now we'll use white to apply some small sharp reflex highlights. I like to apply these as
a series of broken lines and dots along the very edge of the rim.
For the steel parts we'll make a one to one mix of black and mediterranean blue. And we'll
apply this as our initial highlight over the black areas.
For these round studs, you want the highlight to be rounded and facing forwards the highlight
on the shoulder.
Add some white to your mix and do the same again, this time covering a smaller surface.
To finish off add some final small white highlights.
This area on the sole of the foot doesn't have a lot of surface area so we're going to start off with our brighter highlight colour.
I apply this along the edge of the shoe treads, and I try to do it with a random series of
dots and lines. You can see I do this fairly quickly, this is deliberate and helps to ensure
I don't form a pattern when I'm applying the highlights.
We're jumping forward a bit here, but this is just to illustrate how to paint rivots.
The technique I use is to first paint them black by placing the tip of the brush on the
top of the rivot. Then I make very small circular motions with the brush as I apply gentle downwards
pressure. I find that paints the whole rivot without having to worry about constantly tilting
the model about to paint the sides. To highlight them, I simply add a small dot
of white on top of each one.
Moving on to the backpack now, you can see it's already based in navy blue. and we'll
block these lower panels here in medeteranean blue.
So this is essentially going to be the same idea as the rest of armour we painted in part
one, but I think it's good to reiterate it just so the process is clear.
So we'll apply a round highlight here on the exhaust pipe so that it's in line with the
highlight on the shoulder pad.
Then we'll paint a band across the top of the backpack so that the highlights line up across each section of the pack.
And we'll do exactly the same thing on the other side.
Then we'll make a 1:1 mix of navy and medeterranean blue and apply it so that it overlaps out
initial highlight. To blur this out we add some water to this
mix, and glaze over the transition until the hard edge between the two colours disappears.
Then do exactly the same thing with the medeterranean blue.
Add another smaller highlight with sky blue.
Now blend the transition by glazing over the edge with a thin glaze of sky blue.
Once you're happy with the blend, add another highlight, by mixing some white into the sky blue.
We'll just dot the exhaust pods in the very centre of our highlight.
Then we'll add a single straight highlight along the top of the backpack so that it lines
up across each section.
We'll also do some edge highlights like so.
Hit the lower edge of each of these exhaust ports to make them stand out.
For these edge highlights along the sides here, notice I'm not making them solid lines.
Instead I'm trying to make them quite broken by varying the transparency along the edge.
This is something I started doing after watching Ben Komets, it really helps to give a more
realistic metallic look. And it actually a lot easier than doing a solid highlight.
For the steel parts we'll again do our initial highlight with a 1:1 mix of black and medeterranean
blue. For this part we'll highlight the lower edge
here. and along the tops of these rims at the exhaust pods
Add a bit of white to the mix and apply some
smaller highlights.
We'll also use this mix to pick out the piping details.
Add some more white and add some more highlight.
To finish these areas off add some very small highlights with white.
We're going to stick with white now and begin to add sparkle highlights to the blue armour.
To do this you want to place lots of small dots along the very edges of the armour plates.
Try and make these quite random, it's important that you don't build up a pattern.
those this edge, I've watered the white down a little that's going to let me do an edge
highlight without being too harsh because I can alter the level of transparency by simply
going over certain areas I want to pick out. Back to normal now, you can see the paint
is quite thick here, that's so the highlights go on nice and solid.
It's good to focus on where these highlights intersect, you can make the highlight quite
strong at those points then make them fade out a little as you get futher away.
This is actually my favourite part of painting, it's a lot of fun to mess about here. It's
quite simple to do but it makes a big difference to the finish.
For these molded scratches we'll just hit the lower edge with our bright highlight to
make them stand out. Alright guys, so that's the end of part II,
I hope you found this little mini series useful. I might do a series where I show how to do
a bunch of different space marine factions, not sure yet. It depends if I can find the
time for it. We'll see! So as always,
If you have a question or just want to let me know what you thought of the video, leave
a comment down below. like, share and subscribe and I'll see you all next time!
Thanks again..
Bye for now.

How to Paint Shiny Ultramarine Armour 40K - Part II Kujo Painting [Tutorial]

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